BY MARC CHAPPELLE
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Some could argue that sushi rolling is an art. I wouldn’t go as far as to say that the offerings of Wrap N Roll (or any form of sushi I’ve had) in Midtown Sacramento qualify as a carefully crafted art piece, but that doesn’t mean that their sushi burritos aren’t satisfying in taste, texture, or value. Sushi burritos have been on the cuisine scene for a good amount of time now – they’re pretty well known, probably most among the youth.
To clear the air, yes, novel as these glorified, handheld sushi rolls seem to be, Wrap N’ Roll’s aren’t the original deal. The credit for the first sushiritto shop goes to the aptly named Sushiritto, operating in four locations in San Francisco and one in Palo Alto. Wrap N’ Roll operates out of Elk Grove and Midtown, in comparison.
In my handful of experiences with Wrap N’ Roll, I paid no mind to this blatant idea theft – sushirittos are sushirittos. And so far, they seem to be created roughly equal across the two small California chains. Most recently, I ordered the “spicy” Sashimi burrito.
The chili pepper designated its level of spice was wholly misleading. I know I didn’t get a sushi roll made haphazardly in the heat of dinner rush hour, as I was the only customer in the shop. If my tongue is pointing me in the right direction, the amount and strength of the wasabi mayo, habanero sauce and jalapenos left me underwhelmed. My hope is that in recent times, they’ve toned down the spice to make things more accessible, because I can understand the reasoning behind that.
What I can’t understand is why Wrap N’ Roll would not make true on its promise of spiciness. In a ploy to keep faith alive, I’m going to assume this is commodification rather than inattention to detail.
Once I got over the fact that the spicy chili lied to me, I went on to enjoy the rest of the burrito’s flavor palate, a refreshing mix of cold, crisp radish sprouts and sunomono and filling sashimi chunks. I’ve had too many experiences with sushi joints taking cost cutting measures when it comes to their sashimi portions – stocking and serving raw fish on the daily isn’t an easy feat. I’m happy to say that that isn’t the case here. The sashimi was as fresh as any I’ve had and was plentiful enough to make the burrito live up to its name. This mix of crisp, cold veggies and filling seafood is one consistent across near all of Wrap N’ Roll’s sushirittos. Paired with the (stolen) novelty of an oversized sushi roll, it’s rare that I leave the place disappointed.
I said before that I’ve yet to have a sushi dish that I’d consider fine art. That holds true, but I should point out that what is an art and takes experience to master is the technique of eating these monster rolls. Despite the butcher paper that helps shield my grubby hands from delicate seaweed or flake wrappings, I can’t seem to get to the end the burrito with its bottom falling all out of whack.
By the end of it all, it becomes a mess, but not one that I can’t enjoy – it’s all part of the novel experience.
